Every Trail Tells a Story
Sunset Beach
Rich tide pools-mussels, anemones, sea stars, and more.
Solitude on one of Point Reyes’ quietest estero trails.
Dramatic views of estuary, ocean, and sunset skies.
Located west of Drakes Head and tucked inside the mouth of Drakes Estero, Sunset Beach is not your classic sandy strand-it’s narrow, mostly rocky, and home to some of the richest tide pools in Point Reyes National Seashore. Narrow, mostly rocky, and battered by tides, it harbors some of the richest tide pools in Point Reyes. Crabs scuttle sideways, mussels cling to rocks in improbable numbers, anemones open their green mouths, and sea stars lounge like royalty. The reason? Location, location, location. At the meeting point of estuary and open ocean, nutrients swirl in on each tide, sustaining a banquet of intertidal life. (Plan your hike around low tide, or you’ll be staring at waves instead of sea stars.)
The walk to Sunset Beach begins on the splendid Estero Trail, already a treasure in its own right, skirting Drakes Estero’s bays and mudflats where shorebirds, ducks, and the occasional harbor seal put on a show. About 2.6 miles in, Estero Trail peels away toward Drakes Head, while the aptly signed Sunset Beach Trail continues southwest along the estero’s edge. The name is a little misleading-it’s not a seaside stroll so much as a hillside traverse with outstanding views: Schooner Bay glinting in the distance, Drakes Beach stretched out like a sandy ribbon, Bull Point jutting toward the Pacific.
Despite its name, Sunset Beach Trail is not a beach stroll but a hillside traverse, and a fine one at that. From its perch above the water, hikers can survey a panorama that includes Drakes Estero, Drakes Beach, Bull Point, and the broad Pacific. For much of its length, the trail meanders through grasslands tufted with coyote brush, passes stands of blackberry, and brushes against the salty edges of pickleweed marsh. It’s a landscape of subtle contrasts: estuary calm on one side, ocean power on the other.
For the Trailmaster, Sunset Beach has always been a kind of Point Reyes “hidden gem.” The popular trails to Bear Valley or Arch Rock draw the crowds, but here solitude is your companion. I’ve led groups of European and out-of-state hikers who couldn’t believe they could walk for hours in California-California!-and see more pelicans than people.
The final approach to Sunset Beach slips through coyote brush and pickleweed before spilling onto the rocky shoreline. The tide pools invite exploration, but so does the broader view. From this perch near the mouth of Drakes Estero, you’re straddling two worlds: the protected estuary on one side, the wild Pacific on the other. It’s the kind of spot where you feel the pulse of Point Reyes-restless, abundant, always in motion. And, if you stay late enough, the name promises a show: a fiery sun sinking into the Pacific, with the tide pools catching the last light.
From Highway 1 in Olema, proceed two miles north and veer left onto Sir Francis Drake Highway. Follow the highway 7.5 miles to Estero Road. Turn left and drive a mile to Estero parking and trailhead.
Estero Trail begins as a gentle climb across open grasslands with fine views back to Inverness Ridge. At 0.5 mile, pass a stand of Monterey pines, once a Christmas tree farm. At 1.2 miles, a causeway crosses Home Bay, where mudflats teem with shorebirds and rafts of ducks.
The road grows rutted as it ascends lupine-covered slopes, offering views across Home Bay. Watch for browsing deer-both native black-tailed and the nonnative fallow. After a short climb, the trail passes through a gate and continues higher above the estero, with vistas across Creamery Bay and Schooner Bay.
At 2.5 miles, reach the signed junction with Sunset Beach Trail. Head southwest on a more modest descent above the estero. The trail meanders across grassland, past blackberry thickets, and dips between two low hills. About 0.9 mile from the junction, pass to the left of a lagoon, where pickleweed and shorebirds announce the nearness of tidal waters.
The path soon levels out and delivers you to Sunset Beach itself-a rocky strip backed by headlands at the mouth of Drakes Estero. Wander the tide pools at low tide, or simply sit and take in the scene of estuary and ocean colliding.