Scotty’s Castle

Scotty’s Castle, the Mediterranean-to-the-max mega-hacienda in the northern part of the park, is unabashedly Death Valley’s premiere tourist attraction. Visitors are wowed by the elaborate Spanish tiles, well-crafted furnishings, and innovative construction that included solar water heating. Even more compelling is the colorful history of this villa in remote Grapevine Canyon.

Construction of the “castle” – officially Death Valley Ranch – began in 1924. It was to be a winter retreat for eccentric Chicago millionaire Albert Johnson. The insurance tycoon’s unlikely friendship with prospector-cowboy-spinner of tall tales Walter Scott put the $2.3 million structure on the map and captured the public’s imagination. Scotty greeted visitors and told them fanciful stories from the early hard rock mining days of Death Valley.

Let’s be clear: this was never Scotty’s castle. Scotty couldn’t afford a shack, let alone a Spanish Revival villa. But he could sell a story, and he sold plenty. Depending on the day, he claimed the castle was financed by secret mines, hidden gold, or perhaps even a royal benefactor. Tourists ate it up, and Johnson – who knew better – let him carry on. After all, Scotty’s tales made the mansion legendary and gave the millionaire’s desert playground an irresistible mystique.

The one-hour living history tour (fee) of Scotty’s Castle is excellent, both for its inside look at the mansion and for what it reveals about the eccentricities of Johnson and Scotty. Tickets must be purchased in advance online or on the day of the tour at the Scotty’s Castle Visitor Center.

Want more irony? Scotty never lived in the castle; his digs were a modest cabin down the canyon. You can hike there on the ranger-guided tour to Lower Vine Ranch and see how the “owner” of the castle really lived.

On the castle grounds, you can wander past the swimming pool (never filled), the stables, the bunkhouse, and the powerhouse. Johnson once stockpiled 70 miles worth of abandoned railroad ties for firewood, thousands of which still clutter Tie Canyon.

Windy Point Trail offers a final chapter to the story. The short climb delivers wide-angle views of the castle’s clock tower and the desert ranges beyond. At the top, you’ll find a small cross-marked grave. Windy Point is, indeed, often windy, but was actually named for Death Valley Scotty’s dog who lies buried next to his master.