
The redwood cathedral that launched the American conservation movement
Step off the paved path and the world goes silent
Proof that even the most famous forest can still feel holy
Muir Woods draws an international crowd. While hiking the trails, expect to hear praise of the tall trees in a half-dozen languages, though something about these cathedrals of redwoods lowers the volume on even the most effusive visitors.
“This is the best tree-lover’s monument that could possibly be found in all the forests of the world,” wrote John Muir upon learning a redwood preserve was dedicated in his name. “You have done me great honor and I am proud of it.”
Most of the million-plus visitors a year who walk in Muir Woods would agree with the great naturalist. The national monument is a must-see for visitors from around the state and around the world.
The monument exists because of foresight-and money used wisely. In 1905, Congressman William Kent and his wife, Elizabeth Thacher Kent, purchased this canyon to protect it from logging and development. When a water company attempted to condemn part of the land, Kent donated 295 acres to the federal government in 1908, asking President Theodore Roosevelt to declare it a national monument. Roosevelt agreed. Kent insisted it be named for John Muir rather than himself. Good call. “Kent Woods” doesn’t quite stir the soul.
Redwood Creek flows quietly through the heart of the monument, a silver thread sewing together 600-year-old coast redwoods that soar more than 250 feet overhead. These trees thrive in fog. Summer’s marine layer drifts inland from the Pacific, condensing on needles and dripping to the forest floor in a process called fog drip-an essential water source in dry months. Sword ferns carpet the understory. Tanoak, bay, and big-leaf maple share the canopy. Banana slugs patrol the duff like slow-moving custodians.
Yes, it’s popular. Parking is limited and reservations are required year-round-for both parking and shuttle access. This isn’t optional. Show up without a reservation and you will not park. The system works. The forest breathes easier.
The main trail along Redwood Creek is paved and nearly flat, but step beyond the bridges and the experience deepens. Within minutes you can leave the densest foot traffic behind and find yourself alone with filtered light, cool air, and the soft percussion of water over stone.
Muir Woods may be famous, but fame hasn’t diminished its power. Stand still. Look up. The noise of the world fades faster than you expect.
Muir Woods is located about 12 miles north of the Golden Gate Bridge at 1 Muir Woods Rd in Mill Valley.
Parking spaces are limited and visitors who drive must make a parking reservation at GoMuirWoods.com, where you can also learn about Muir Woods Shuttle, which operates seasonally and brings visitors from Larkspur Ferry Landing on weekends and holidays and the Sausalito Ferry Terminal on select summer weekdays. 68
From the entrance plaza, join the paved Main Trail along Redwood Creek. Cross Bridge 1 and continue upstream through towering old-growth redwoods. Interpretive signs explain forest ecology; most hikers move slowly anyway, craning necks.
At Bridge 2, begin the numbered nature trail loop if desired. Continue to Cathedral Grove near Bridge 3-one of the quietest and most reverent stretches of forest in the monument.
For the standard 2-mile loop, cross one of the bridges (2, 3, or 4) and return on the opposite side of the creek.
For the 6-mile grand tour, continue past Bridge 4 and join Bootjack Trail. The path climbs steadily through ferns and mixed woodland, leaving the creek behind. Reach Van Wyck Meadow and intersect TCC Trail. Bear left for a mellow traverse, then connect with Stapelveldt and Ben Johnson trails. Descend through Bohemian Grove and return via Hillside Trail to Bridge 1 and the main entrance.
Expect elevation gain on the longer loop-and significantly fewer people. 163
