Every Trail Tells a Story
Whitney Butte
Longest trail in Lava Beds – solitude, silence, and wide-open wilderness.
Summit views that sweep from Tule Lake to Mount Shasta.
Bonus stop: Merrill Ice Cave, where summer heat meets subterranean chill.
Whitney Butte is the long hike in Lava Beds, the trail that rewards those who want more than a quick cave or butte climb. It’s in the wilderness area of Lava Beds National Monument – “wilderness” with a capital W, officially designated, yet not so remote that you can’t spot a ranch or two on the horizon. Even so, no roads or vehicles penetrate this landscape, and once your boots hit the trail, the modern world feels far away.
Whitney Butte rises modestly – 5,004 feet in elevation – but stands as a small volcano among many. The butte looks out across a high desert environment of sagebrush, juniper, bunch grass, and mountain mahogany. As you walk, you’ll notice the dark jumbles of the Callahan Lava Flow to the west. It’s an immense sheet of frozen basalt, poured out of the earth in a fiery torrent centuries ago. Your trail heads straight toward it, the butte rising in front of you like a sentinel keeping watch.
Climb Whitney Butte, and the story becomes one of perspective. From the summit, you’ll see the quilt of habitats that make up the monument: lava flows, sage flats, scattered buttes, and forest patches in the Modoc National Forest beyond. To the north, Tule Lake National Wildlife Refuge glimmers, a magnet for millions of migratory birds. To the west, the lord of all volcanoes, Mount Shasta, dominates the skyline.
Merrill Ice Cave: Whitney Butte Trail shares an access point with the Merrill Ice Cave. This lava tube system once served as a natural refrigerator for settlers. Wooden stairs and a ladder allow visitors to descend safely, where an ice-covered pond endures year-round. It’s a place where summer heat gives way to subterranean chill – bring a jacket and at least two light sources if you plan to explore.
From the Lava Beds Visitor Center, drive 2 miles north on the main park road to the signed turnoff for Merrill Cave. Turn left (west) and follow the paved road about 1 mile to the parking area, which serves both the cave and the Whitney Butte Trail. The signed trailhead begins just beyond the parking area.
The first mile leads you across open country, past clumps of sagebrush and scattered juniper, the ground dark with basaltic rock. Bunch grasses wave in the wind, and Tule Lake spreads across the northern horizon. About two miles out, the snowy cone of Mount Shasta comes into view, often floating like a mirage above the desert air.
At roughly 3.3 miles from the trailhead, look for the short connector paths that branch toward the summit of Whitney Butte. None are official, but each winds to the top without much difficulty. Take your pick, scramble up, and enjoy the view. After exploring the summit, descend to the main trail.
Continuing west, the Whitney Butte Trail ends at the edge of the Callahan Lava Flow. The flow is fascinating – an endless sheet of cracked, black rock – but not welcoming to walkers. Treat it as a dramatic backdrop before retracing your steps back to the trailhead.