
Walk through desert real estate that went bust in the 1920s – and is better off for it.
Watch wildflowers brighten the flatlands of “Turkey Flats,” where chickens once failed.
Reach dunes that prove the desert doesn’t need to be Sahara-sized to be spectacular.
As a habitat for humans, Pinto Basin is, to say the least, forbidding: a barren lowland surrounded by austere mountains, and punctuated by sand dunes.
Nevertheless, some 4,000 to 8,000 years ago, native people lived here. Environmental conditions were friendlier then – creeks flowed across the center of the basin and a forest cloaked the mountainsides. Still, even in these better times, the people who lived here had to adapt to desert living and forge specialized tools; so distinctive were these ancients that anthropologists describe them as “Pinto Man.” Gifted amateur archeologists from Twentynine Palms, William and Elizabeth Campbell, began recovering artifacts from the Pinto Basin in the 1930s. Since then, evidence of Pinto Man culture has turned up across the California Desert.
Fast-forward to the 1920s, and resourcefulness turned into wishful thinking. Real estate developers, undeterred by the absence of water, began selling parcels in Pinto Basin as if it were the next Palm Springs. The Lake County Development Syndicate promised fortunes once a water source was “developed.” But the wells never came in, the Depression came along instead, and dreams of swimming pools and desert ranches dried up faster than a July puddle.
Even poultry farmers gave it a go. At Turkey Flats, some optimist thought chickens would thrive in this arid expanse. (Spoiler: they didn’t.) The name “Turkey Flats” stuck, though, and today it’s less about gobblers and more about wildflowers – desert lilies, lupine, and primrose put on a surprising spring show.
Geologists say the basin is on the edge of the Basin and Range province and has more in common with Nevada or Utah than with the rest of Joshua Tree. The fine soil retains just enough moisture to support scrub communities, offering shelter to jackrabbits and desert tortoises. Watch your step: tortoise burrows are more common than houses here, a silent testament to who really “owns” the land.
And about those sand dunes – don’t expect Sahara-style crests. They aren’t “true dunes” but rather layers of fine sand spread over a fracture ridge. Still, when the wind kicks up and the sun plays across the ripples, you won’t be quibbling with geology.
The Turkey Flats Backcountry Board and parking area is just off Pinto Basin Road, about 16 miles south of the Pinto Y junction and 14 miles north of Cottonwood Spring Visitor Center.
Hike northeast toward the dunes. Keep oriented by heading straight toward prominent Pinto Mountain (3,983 feet). Be sure to look behind you as well to fix the landscape in your mind; the trailhead is hard to see on the way back.
Reach the first ridge of the dunes in about a mile. Continue to a second ridge or frolic in the sand before returning the way you came.
