Every Trail Tells a Story
Olema Valley
Walk the fault line-literally-through a pastoral, earthquake-carved valley.
Relive Olema’s brush with hippie fame while humming a 1970 protest song.
Olema Valley Trail is an ideal one-way hike
A gorge formed by earthquake action along the San Andreas Fault, Olema Valley extends some 10 miles south from the town of Olema to Bolinas Lagoon. The pastoral valley is bounded by Bolinas Ridge and Inverness Ridge.
Highway 1 passes through Olema Valley and motorists get views of grazing cattle, Victorian houses, and the lovely lands preserved in two national parks-Golden Gate National Recreation Area and Point Reyes National Seashore. Olema Valley lies within the boundaries of GGNRA, though administered by Point Reyes National Seashore.
For hikers, the valley offers more than scenery-it offers history, humor, and even a touch of counterculture. In 1970, the Youngbloods (best known for “Get Together”) released Hippie from Olema, a playful answer song to Merle Haggard’s Okie from Muskogee. Where Haggard praised small-town conservatism, the Youngbloods sang of long hair, free love, and Marin County ideals. The song didn’t top the charts, but it gave Olema Valley a permanent place in the soundtrack of the era.
Then there are the bovine residents. Olema Valley is prime grazing country, and you often spot cows-from Highway 1 and from the trail. Once a bull showed up to liven a hike: While leading a dozen guests from across the country on Olema Valley Trail, I spotted a large bull ambling our way. I did my best impersonation of a calm and fearless trail guide-speaking in a soothing voice, advancing slowly-while silently calculating whether my employment (and perhaps my life) would survive the encounter. Fortunately, romance won out over rage: the bull turned aside toward a nearby cow, leaving us un-gored and very grateful.
The trail itself runs right along the rift zone of the San Andreas Fault, where North America and the Pacific Plate are slowly grinding past one another. It’s a gentle reminder that landscapes and cultures alike are shaped by fault lines.
Because of its popularity with mountain bikers and horseback riders, The Trailmaster suggests hiking Olema Valley Trail one-way with a car shuttle. And one last tip: the mile nearest the Dogtown trailhead is often lushly overgrown, with poison oak so abundant it seems to wave hello.
From Highway 1, some 9 miles north of Stinson Beach and 3.5 miles south of Olema, turn west at the signed turnoff for Five Brooks and drive 0.25 mile to the large parking area.
Sometimes a hike begins like this-you must hike north before you can hike south. Join Stewart Trail for 0.3 mile, passing a pond frequented by ducks, egrets, and migratory birds. At the junction with Olema Trail, turn left, then right, descending into a mixed forest of Douglas fir, oak, and bay. Nearly a mile out, the path crosses a bridge and begins a moderate, sometimes steep climb to the junction with Bolema Trail.
Bear left on Olema Valley Trail and descend into a small meadow and narrows. The trail meanders between grassland and woodland, then descends again to meet Randall Trail at the 3.1-mile mark. Continue southeast through alternating forest and open country.
At 4.7 miles, cross Pine Creek (no bridge, but usually shallow), then brace yourself for the brushiest section-narrow tread, overhanging vegetation, and plenty of poison oak. Hike past the junction with Teixeira Trail at the 5-mile mark, cross one last creek, and complete the final half-mile to the Olema Valley Trailhead in Dogtown.