Drakes Beach

When Sir Francis Drake pulled his weather-battered Golden Hinde into a sheltered cove somewhere along the California coast in 1579, he set in motion one of the longest-running debates in Golden State history: exactly where was “New Albion”? Some insist it was just north of San Francisco, others argue for Bodega Bay or even Oregon. But many Point Reyes locals (and plenty of scholars) are sure he landed right here, at Drakes Beach. The bluffs, the sheltered bay, the south-facing aspect-it all matches the old maps and descriptions.

Whether or not Drake hammered a brass plate here to claim land for Queen Elizabeth I, there’s no denying he left behind a tale big enough to name a cape, a bay, a lagoon, and, of course, this broad beach. Fast-forward to today: Drake’s name has been pulled off Bay Area schools and libraries in the spirit of re-examining colonial history. But his story lingers on the landscape, woven into the interpretive exhibits at the Kenneth C. Patrick Visitor Center.

Now, let’s turn to the modern hiker’s delight. This south-facing crescent of sand feels different from the wind-hammered west-facing beaches of Point Reyes. Sheltered from prevailing northwesterlies, Drakes Beach often offers calmer conditions and milder weather. It’s the kind of place you can actually picnic without your sandwich instantly turning into a grit-fest.

Naturalists love Drakes Beach for its geology: tall white sea cliffs line the shore, telling a story in strata of ancient seabeds uplifted by restless tectonic plates. On low tides, tide pools dot the rocky sections of beach, revealing starfish, anemones, and scuttling crabs. Harbor seals haul out nearby, while pelicans and cormorants patrol the surf. On gray whale migration days, you might even spot spouts just offshore.

The amenities are great for families and day hikers. Restrooms, picnic tables, and parking are right at the beach. The visitor center is worth a stop for maps, geology and wildlife exhibits, and a bookstore. Alas, the once-beloved Drakes Beach Café is “indefinitely closed,” so bring your own food if you plan to linger.

Believer or skeptic in Drake’s exact landing spot, you’ll enjoy a saunter here. Wander the length of the beach, watch the light change on the bluffs, breathe in the salt air, and consider how many stories-mythic and real-have washed ashore on these sands.