Every Trail Tells a Story
D.L. Bliss & Emerald Bay State Parks
To hike one of California’s most scenic lakeside trails.
To explore Tahoe’s rare publicly accessible shoreline.
To grin at the sight of a full-blown Norse castle perched improbably on Emerald Bay.
And to remind yourself: if only more of Tahoe’s 72 miles of shoreline had been left like this-wild, walkable, and open to all.
Lake Tahoe-Washoe Indians called it “Lake of the Sky”-is California’s biggest, boldest, bluest alpine jewel. Twenty-two miles long, twelve miles wide, and more than 1,600 feet deep, Tahoe holds enough water to cover the entire state of California in fourteen inches of liquid. Mighty as it is, access to the lake’s 72-mile shoreline is surprisingly scarce. Resorts, private estates, and cliff-hugging highways keep much of it out of reach. That’s why the six miles of publicly accessible shoreline protected by adjoining D.L. Bliss & Emerald Bay State Parks are especially precious.
And what a shoreline it is. The Rubicon Trail links the two parks, a spectacular path that hugs bluffs above the lake, contours through forests of Jeffrey and ponderosa pine, incense cedar, and red and white fir, and delivers eye-popping views of Tahoe’s blue expanse. Look down and you may see boulders sitting beneath water so clear they seem close enough to touch. Look up and you’ll see Tahoe’s circling ring of snowy Sierra summits.
D.L. Bliss State Park, named for a lumber baron who once owned much of this land, is best known for Balancing Rock, a 130-ton granite boulder that somehow still perches precariously on a pedestal. Someday gravity will win, but until then hikers pose happily beneath it.
Head south and the trail winds toward Emerald Bay, one of the most photographed coves in the Sierra. Carved by glaciers, framed by ridges, and shimmering in shades of jade and turquoise, the bay deserves its postcard fame. Swim if you dare-Tahoe’s summer water temperature barely claws into the low 60s.
And then there’s Vikingsholm. In 1928, heiress Lora Knight decided Emerald Bay needed a ninth-century Norse castle. A year later, turrets, towers, and 38 rooms were complete. The fortress is equal parts impressive and absurd-a slice of Scandinavia plunked onto the California shore. You may chuckle at the whimsy but admit it: Vikingsholm in its lakeside setting has undeniable charm.
Most visitors make the short trek to the castle and beach. Hikers with stamina should follow Rubicon Trail further, enjoying secluded coves, cliffside viewpoints, and rocky perches like Parson Rock, perfect for photographers. Every turn serves up another grand panorama and another reminder of why these two miles of preserved shoreline are worth their weight in gold.
Use “Emerald Bay State Park” or “Vikingsholm Parking Lot Highway 89″ for navigation. From South Lake Tahoe, drive 11 miles north on Highway 89 to the D.L. Bliss State Park entrance. From Tahoe City, drive 16 miles south. Follow Lester Beach Road 2.5 miles to Calawee Cove Beach parking. The trail begins at the east end of the lot.
Rubicon Trail offers two initial choices: upper or lower path, both rejoining at the Old Lighthouse. From there, the trail hugs cliffs above Tahoe, with a steel cable handrail offering reassurance on the narrowest ledges. The path passes Bonnie Bay, then splits toward Emerald Point or Emerald Bay. Continue through fir and cedar, cross creeks, and skirt rocky promontories before descending into Emerald Bay State Park and reaching Vikingsholm.